From Garden to Pantry: How to Dry and Preserve Your Fresh Herbs 🌿

Drying herbs is one of the easiest ways to preserve your harvest. You don’t need fancy equipment, and once your herbs are completely dry, they can be stored in airtight jars and used throughout the year for cooking, teas, homemade seasoning blends, and more.

Whether you’re growing basil on the patio, rosemary in the garden, or chamomile for a relaxing cup of tea, here’s a simple guide to drying herbs at home.

🌱 When Is the Best Time to Harvest Herbs?

For the best flavor and aroma, harvest herbs in the morning after the dew has dried but before the heat of the day becomes intense.

For leafy herbs such as basil, mint, lemon balm, oregano, and parsley, harvest stems before the plants begin flowering when possible. The leaves generally have their strongest flavor at this stage.

For flowering herbs such as lavender and chamomile, harvest when the flowers are at their best and have opened sufficiently.

A few harvesting tips:

Use clean, sharp scissors or garden snips.
Choose healthy stems and leaves without insects, disease, or damage.
Avoid harvesting wet herbs whenever possible.
Don’t remove more than about one-third of the plant at a time so it can continue growing.

🌿 Preparing Herbs for Drying

Before drying, gently inspect your harvest and remove damaged or discolored leaves.

If your herbs are clean, it’s often best not to wash them, because extra moisture can make drying take longer. If they do need washing, rinse them gently and pat them thoroughly dry with a clean towel.

Remove excess leaves from the lower portion of stems if you plan to hang the herbs in bundles.

Now you’re ready to choose your drying method!

Method 1: Air-Drying Herbs

Air-drying is my favorite old-fashioned method because it’s simple, inexpensive, and requires very little equipment.

It works especially well for herbs with lower moisture content such as:

Rosemary
Thyme
Oregano
Sage
Lavender

How to air-dry herbs:

1. Gather small bundles.
Tie several stems together with twine or a rubber band. Keep the bundles relatively small so air can circulate around the herbs.

2. Hang them upside down.
Choose a dry, dark, well-ventilated location away from direct sunlight.

A pantry, spare room, covered porch, or other dry area can work well.

3. Give them time.
Depending on the herb and your home’s humidity, drying can take anywhere from several days to two weeks.

4. Check for dryness.
Your herbs are ready when the leaves feel crisp and crumble easily between your fingers. Stems should snap rather than bend.

🌿 Air-Drying Tip

Don’t make your bundles too large. A thick bundle can trap moisture in the center and encourage mold. Smaller bundles with plenty of airflow are much safer.

Method 2: Oven-Drying Herbs

If you want your herbs dried more quickly, the oven can help.

The key is LOW heat. Herbs can lose their delicate flavor, color, and aroma if exposed to excessive heat.

How to oven-dry herbs:

Preheat your oven to its lowest possible temperature, ideally around 95–120°F (35–50°C).
Remove the leaves from thick stems if appropriate.
Spread the herbs in a single layer on a baking sheet.
Place the tray in the oven.
Keep the oven door slightly open if your oven and household setup safely allow it, helping moisture escape.
Check the herbs frequently and gently turn them if needed.
Remove them when they are completely dry and crisp.

Drying times vary considerably depending on the herb, moisture level, oven, and humidity. The chart in the image gives approximate starting points, but always use dryness—not the clock—as your final test.

For example, basil and mint may dry relatively quickly, while thicker herbs such as rosemary and sage can take longer.

🌿 Don’t Forget About Flowers!

Drying isn’t just for culinary herbs.

You can also preserve herbs and flowers such as:

Lavender: Perfect for sachets, crafts, and homemade potpourri.

Chamomile: Dry the flowers for herbal tea or decorative projects.

Lemon balm: A fragrant herb that can be dried for teas and culinary uses.

Dill: Dry the leaves and seeds for cooking.

🌸 How Do You Know When Herbs Are Completely Dry?

This is one of the most important steps!

Herbs need to be completely dry before storing. Any remaining moisture can lead to mold or spoilage.

Try the crumble test:

Take a dried leaf and gently crush it between your fingers.

If it crumbles easily and feels crisp, it is ready.

If it feels soft, leathery, cool, or bends without breaking, it needs more drying time.

For flowers, the petals should feel dry and papery rather than soft or moist.

🫙 How to Store Dried Herbs

Once your herbs are completely dry, remove the leaves from their stems and gently crumble them.

Avoid pulverizing them into a fine powder unless a recipe specifically calls for it. Keeping the leaves slightly larger helps preserve their aroma and flavor.

Place the dried herbs into clean, completely dry, airtight glass jars.

Label each jar with:

The name of the herb
The date it was dried

Store the jars in a cool, dark, dry place, such as a pantry or cupboard.

Avoid storing dried herbs above the stove or in direct sunlight, where heat and light can cause their flavor and color to fade.

🌿 Your Herb Drying Cheat Sheet

Here are approximate drying times from the chart:

Herb	Air-Drying	Oven-Drying
Basil	5–7 days	30–40 minutes
Mint	5–7 days	30–40 minutes
Rosemary	7–14 days	45–60 minutes
Thyme	7–14 days	30–40 minutes
Oregano	7–14 days	30–40 minutes
Sage	7–14 days	45–60 minutes
Parsley	7–10 days	30–40 minutes
Dill	7–10 days	30–40 minutes
Lavender	10–14 days	30–40 minutes
Lemon Balm	5–7 days	30–40 minutes
Chamomile	7–10 days	30–40 minutes
Chives	7–10 days	30–40 minutes

Remember: These are approximate ranges, not guarantees. Humidity, herb thickness, airflow, and your oven all affect drying time.

🍃 A Few More Herb-Drying Tips

Don’t rush the process.
Low and slow is better than using high heat.

Keep herbs out of direct sunlight.
Sunlight can fade their beautiful green color and reduce their aromatic quality.

Give them plenty of airflow.
Good ventilation is especially important when air-drying.

Check for moisture before storing.
One slightly damp batch can spoil an entire jar.

Don’t forget your labels!
A jar of dried green leaves can become surprisingly difficult to identify six months later. Trust me—your future self will appreciate the label!

🌻 Bring Your Garden Into Every Season

One of the best things about growing herbs is that the harvest doesn’t have to end when summer does.

By drying your herbs, you can capture a little piece of your garden and bring it into your kitchen throughout the year. Imagine opening a jar of dried rosemary in winter and getting that wonderful garden-fresh aroma—or brewing a cup of chamomile tea from flowers you harvested yourself.

It’s simple, inexpensive, and wonderfully rewarding.

🍋 Grow a Fruiting Lemon Tree From Seed at Home

Have you ever wondered if you could grow your very own lemon tree from a lemon you bought at the grocery store? Good news—you can! With a little patience, sunshine, and the right care, that tiny lemon seed can become a beautiful little citrus tree for your home or patio.

Growing a lemon tree from seed is one of those gardening projects that feels almost magical. You start with something most people would simply toss into the compost bin, tuck it into some soil, and eventually watch a tiny green sprout emerge.

But there is one thing every gardener should know before getting started: a seed-grown lemon tree is a long-term gardening project. It can take several years to reach fruiting size, and seed-grown citrus may not produce fruit exactly like the parent lemon. If your main goal is harvesting lemons quickly, a grafted or established Meyer lemon tree is a better choice.

If you’re gardening for the fun of it, though, growing one from seed is absolutely worth trying!

🌱 What You’ll Need

You don’t need fancy equipment to start your lemon tree.

Gather:

🍋 A fresh lemon with healthy, plump seeds
🪴 A small pot with drainage holes
🌱 Well-draining potting mix
💧 Water
☀️ A warm, bright location
🌿 A larger container for transplanting later

For the best chance of germination, choose fresh, healthy-looking seeds directly from the fruit. Rinse away the sticky fruit pulp before planting. Fresh citrus seeds can germinate in warm, moist conditions, often within a few weeks.

🍋 Step 1: Remove and Clean the Seeds

Cut open your lemon and look for several plump, healthy seeds.

Carefully remove them and rinse them under water to remove as much fruit pulp as possible.

Don’t allow the seeds to dry out completely. Fresh citrus seeds tend to perform best when planted soon after removing them from the fruit.

Garden tip: Plant several seeds instead of just one. Not every seed will germinate, and growing a few gives you a better chance of ending up with a strong little seedling.

🌱 Step 2: Plant Your Lemon Seeds

Fill a small container with a lightweight, well-draining potting mix.

Make a small hole and plant the seed approximately ½ inch deep. Cover it gently with soil and water thoroughly.

The soil should be moist but not soggy.

Place your pot somewhere warm and bright. Citrus seeds appreciate warmth while they’re getting started, so avoid putting the container in a chilly location.

Then comes the hardest part of gardening…

Wait! 🌱

Depending on conditions, lemon seeds may sprout within several weeks, although some can take longer.

☀️ Step 3: Give Your Seedling Plenty of Light

Once your little lemon sprout appears, give it as much bright light as you can.

Lemon trees are sun-loving plants, and good light becomes especially important as the tree develops and eventually produces flowers and fruit. Meyer lemon trees grown in containers generally perform best with several hours of direct sunlight each day.

A sunny south-facing window can work well indoors.

If your home doesn’t receive enough natural sunlight, a grow light can help supplement the available light.

💧 Step 4: Water Carefully

One of the easiest ways to get into trouble with container-grown citrus is watering too much.

Lemon trees like moisture, but their roots don’t want to sit in constantly soggy soil.

Allow the surface of the potting mix to dry somewhat before watering again, then water thoroughly and allow excess water to drain away. Overwatering can damage roots and contribute to leaf and fruit drop.

Remember: Your pot absolutely needs drainage holes.

🪴 Step 5: Move Your Lemon Tree Into a Larger Pot

As your seedling grows, its roots will eventually need more room.

When the plant has become established, transplant it into a slightly larger container filled with fresh, well-draining potting mix.

Don’t immediately put a tiny seedling into an enormous pot. A container that’s too large can hold excess moisture around the roots.

As the tree grows, gradually increase the container size.

For long-term container growing, Meyer lemons are particularly popular because they remain relatively compact compared with many other citrus trees.

🌿 Feeding Your Lemon Tree

Once your lemon tree is actively growing, it will appreciate regular feeding.

Use a fertilizer formulated for citrus and follow the label directions carefully. Citrus trees have a relatively high nutrient demand during active growth.

Avoid the temptation to think “more fertilizer means more lemons.”

It doesn’t.

Too much fertilizer can actually cause problems, so follow the recommended application rate.

🌸 When Will My Lemon Tree Produce Lemons?

Here’s where patience becomes your best gardening tool.

A lemon tree grown from seed may take many years to reach fruiting age, and the resulting fruit isn’t guaranteed to match the lemon from which you collected the seed. One extension expert notes that seed-grown Meyer lemons can take around 10 years to fruit.

That means this isn’t quite the same as planting a tomato seed and harvesting tomatoes later in the summer.

Think of it as a garden heirloom project.

You’re growing a tree and watching it develop over time.

If you want fruit sooner, purchasing an established, grafted citrus tree is usually the better route. Dwarf citrus trees are also available specifically for container growing.

🍋 Want Better Chances of Growing Fruit?

If your goal is eventually harvesting lemons from your patio or indoor garden, consider an Improved Meyer Lemon.

Meyer lemons are especially popular with home gardeners because they can be grown successfully in containers, produce fragrant flowers, and have fruit that’s generally sweeter and less acidic than standard lemons.

They are also self-pollinating, meaning you don’t need a second lemon tree simply for pollination.

When grown indoors, however, you may need to help pollinate the flowers by gently brushing pollen between blossoms with a small, soft paintbrush.

🏡 Growing Lemon Trees Indoors

Lemon trees can make beautiful houseplants when given the right conditions.

Choose a bright location with plenty of sunlight. Keep the plant away from cold drafts and heating vents, and pay attention to watering during the winter when growth slows.

If your tree spends the warmer months outdoors, transition it gradually when moving it back inside. Sudden changes in light and temperature can cause leaf or fruit drop.

And don’t be surprised if your lemon tree suddenly fills your home with the most wonderful citrus blossom fragrance.

Those little white flowers can be one of the best parts of growing citrus! 🌸🍋

🌳 A Lemon Tree Is a Long-Term Garden Project

Growing a lemon tree from seed isn’t necessarily about getting a basket of lemons next season.

It’s about the experience.

It’s watching a tiny seed crack open.

It’s seeing the first green leaves appear.

It’s moving that little seedling into its first real pot.

And years later, you may look at that tree and remember the lemon you ate when this whole adventure began.

That’s one of the reasons I love growing plants from seed.

A seed may look small and insignificant, but inside it is the beginning of something much bigger.

🍋 My Lemon-Growing Tips

☀️ Give it light: Lemon trees need plenty of bright light for strong growth and fruit production.

💧 Don’t overwater: Moist, well-draining soil is much better than constantly soggy soil.

🪴 Give roots room: Move your tree into progressively larger containers as it grows.

🌿 Feed during active growth: Use a citrus fertilizer according to the label.

🌸 Be patient: Seed-grown citrus can take years to produce fruit.

🍋 Consider Meyer lemon: If fruit is your ultimate goal, an established or grafted Improved Meyer lemon is generally a more predictable choice for container growing.

Helping Your Aloe Thrive Through Fall & Winter

Aloe vera is one of those wonderfully easygoing plants that doesn’t ask for much—but as the seasons change, your aloe’s care routine should change, too. 🍂☀️

As fall arrives and daylight hours become shorter, aloe vera naturally slows its growth. During winter, it may enter a period of dormancy, meaning it uses less water and grows very little. This is completely normal! The biggest mistake we can make during this quiet season is treating our aloe like it is still actively growing in summer.

Here are a few simple ways to help your aloe stay healthy and happy until spring.

🍂 Fall: Start Slowing Down

In the fall, begin reducing how often you water your aloe. Cooler temperatures and shorter days mean the soil takes longer to dry, so your plant doesn’t need water as frequently.

If your aloe has been growing outdoors, bring it inside before temperatures get too chilly. Aloe vera is sensitive to cold and should be protected from frost; Missouri Botanical Garden recommends bringing outdoor plants indoors before nighttime temperatures drop below about 50°F.

Fall is also a good time to move your aloe to the brightest location in your home.

☀️ Give Your Aloe Plenty of Light

Aloe loves bright light year-round. A south- or west-facing window is an excellent location indoors, although a bright east-facing window can work as well.

Because winter days are shorter, your aloe may not receive as much light as it did during summer. Watch for leaves becoming pale, stretched, or unusually floppy—these can be signs that your plant needs more light.

Garden tip: Rotate your aloe every week or two so all sides of the plant receive good exposure and it grows more evenly.

If your home doesn’t get enough natural light, a grow light can help supplement what your aloe is missing.

💧 How to Water Aloe in Fall & Winter

This is where a little restraint goes a long way!

Aloe vera is a succulent, so its thick leaves store water. Overwatering is much more dangerous than underwatering, particularly during the cooler months.

Before watering, check the soil with your finger. Allow the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings. When it is time to water, give the plant a good, thorough drink and allow excess water to drain completely through the drainage holes.

Then—and this is important—don’t leave your aloe sitting in water.

During fall and winter, you may find that watering every 3–4 weeks or even less frequently is enough, depending on the temperature, light, pot size, and how quickly the soil dries. There isn’t a perfect calendar schedule; the soil itself is your best guide.

🌱 A Simple Aloe Watering Rule

If the soil is still damp → wait.

If the soil has dried thoroughly → water deeply, then let it drain.

If you’re ever unsure whether it’s time to water, waiting a few extra days is usually safer than adding more water.

❄️ Winter Aloe Care

Think of winter as your aloe’s slow season.

Your plant may barely grow, produce fewer—or no—new leaves, and generally look like it is taking a little vacation. That’s okay!

During winter:

Keep your aloe in the brightest spot possible.
Water much less frequently than you would during summer.
Allow the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings.
Never allow the pot to sit in standing water.
Keep it away from cold drafts and freezing temperatures.
Skip heavy feeding while the plant is dormant.

Aloe tolerates dry indoor air quite well, so you don’t need to mist it or add extra humidity.

🪴 Don’t Forget the Pot!

Good drainage is one of the secrets to keeping aloe happy. Choose a pot with drainage holes and use a well-draining cactus or succulent potting mix. This allows excess moisture to escape instead of lingering around the roots.

Aloe really doesn’t want “wet feet.” Too much moisture around the roots can lead to root rot, especially when growth has slowed down.

🌸 Let Your Aloe Rest

One of the best things you can do for your aloe this fall and winter is leave it alone a little more.

We often think a plant needs more attention when it isn’t growing, but with aloe, the opposite is often true. Give it bright light, well-draining soil, occasional deep watering when the soil is dry, and protection from cold.

Then, when spring arrives and the days become longer, you’ll likely see your aloe wake back up with fresh growth. 🌱

Remember: Aloe doesn’t need to be pampered—it needs the right conditions. Less water, plenty of light, and a little seasonal patience can help your aloe thrive year after year.

🌿 Garden Question

Do you have an aloe vera plant at home?

DIY Vintage Crochet Ghost Floral Wall Art

If you love vintage cottage décor, thrifted treasures, lace, and a little spooky-season charm, this project is such a fun one! This adorable ghost combines an old-fashioned crochet/doily look with soft pink and white flowers for a Halloween decoration that feels more whimsical and romantic than scary.

The best part? You can customize the flowers and use thrifted materials to make your ghost completely one-of-a-kind.

🌸 What You’ll Need

For the Background

1 oval wooden plaque or vintage-style wooden frame
Black or very dark charcoal acrylic paint
Paintbrush or foam brush
Sandpaper, optional
Clear matte sealer, optional

For the Ghost

1 large white crochet doily, lace table runner, or crocheted piece
White or cream fabric, optional, for adding fullness behind the crochet
2 pieces of black felt or black fabric for the eyes
Fabric scissors
Hot glue gun and glue sticks
Floral wire or thin craft wire

For the Flowers

Choose artificial flowers in a soft vintage palette:

Pink peonies or roses
White or blush hydrangeas
Small pink pom-pom flowers or alliums
Small white flowers
Green artificial leaves
Optional: tiny baby’s breath

Tip: Look for flowers with slightly muted or dusty colors rather than bright, modern colors. They’ll give the project that beautiful vintage cottage feel.

Helpful Tools

Wire cutters
Scissors
Pencil
Ruler
Optional: staple gun
Optional: small decorative easel or wall hanger

👻 Step 1: Prepare Your Wooden Plaque

Start with an oval wooden plaque. You can find unfinished plaques at craft stores, or keep an eye out at thrift stores for old wooden frames and plaques.

Lightly sand the surface if needed.

Paint the entire front of the plaque black or deep charcoal.

You may need 2–3 coats for good coverage. Allow each coat to dry before applying the next.

For a vintage look:

Once the paint is completely dry, lightly sand around the outer edges to reveal a little of the wood underneath.

This gives the piece an aged, antique appearance.

🕸️ Step 2: Create Your Ghost

Now comes the fun part!

Find a large white crochet doily or vintage crocheted piece. A piece with an open, lacy pattern works beautifully because the dark background will show through the holes and make the ghost shape stand out.

Lay the crochet piece over the wooden plaque.

Arrange it so the center hangs down longer, creating the body of the ghost.

You want the bottom to have an uneven, flowing shape rather than a perfectly straight edge.

Don’t worry about perfection!

The slightly uneven folds are actually what make this project charming.

👻 Step 3: Give Your Ghost Some Shape

If your crochet material is very flat, you can add a lightweight piece of white fabric underneath it.

This will give the ghost more volume and make it easier to see against the black background.

Gather the crochet slightly around the upper portion and let the fabric drape naturally.

Use small dots of hot glue on the back of the crochet only to secure it to the wooden plaque.

Another option is to use tiny staples along the back edge of the plaque if your plaque is thick enough.

Important: Don’t glue every section down. Leaving some areas loose creates the beautiful flowing, ghostly appearance.

👀 Step 4: Add the Ghost’s Eyes

Cut two simple oval shapes from black felt.

You can make them:

Large and spooky
Small and sweet
Slightly uneven for a whimsical handmade appearance

Place them near the upper center of the ghost.

Once you’re happy with the placement, secure them with hot glue.

Cute variation:

Instead of black felt, try using black buttons, small pieces of black lace, or painted wooden shapes.

🌷 Step 5: Prepare Your Flowers

Using your wire cutters, separate your artificial flowers from their stems.

Create several small flower groupings before attaching anything to your ghost.

For the look in the inspiration photo, create two floral sprays:

Left side

1–2 large pink flowers
White hydrangea
Small pink pom-pom flowers
Smaller white flowers
Several green leaves

Right side

Repeat the same general combination.

They don’t have to be identical. In fact, a little asymmetry makes the arrangement look more natural.

🌿 Step 6: Arrange the Flowers Around the Ghost

Start with your largest flowers.

Place them toward the lower sides of the ghost.

Then add the hydrangeas and smaller flowers above and around them.

Finally, tuck in your greenery.

The flowers should frame the ghost rather than cover it.

Think of the arrangement as creating a floral wreath that is open in the middle, with the ghost peeking through.

A good design trick:

Keep the flowers heavier toward the lower half and gradually make the arrangement smaller as it moves upward.

This helps draw the eye toward the ghost’s face.

🔥 Step 7: Secure Everything

Once you love the arrangement, start attaching the flowers.

You can use:

Hot glue
Floral wire
A combination of both

For heavier artificial flowers, I recommend using floral wire first and hot glue second.

The wire provides support while the glue keeps everything in place.

Attach flowers directly to the wooden plaque or carefully secure them to the crochet depending on your design.

🕯️ Step 8: Add the Finishing Touches

Now stand back and look at your ghost from a few feet away.

Ask yourself:

Does the ghost still stand out?

If the flowers are overwhelming the face, remove a few.

If the sides look too bare, add a few small flowers or leaves.

You can also add a tiny amount of:

Spanish moss
Mini faux vines
Small white berries
Tiny black flowers
Vintage lace ribbon

For an extra spooky touch, add a little black or gray dry-brushed paint around the outer edge of the wooden plaque.

🦇 Step 9: Display Your Ghost

Your finished piece can be displayed on a tabletop easel, shelf, mantel, entryway table, or hung on the wall.

I especially love the idea of placing it among:

Vintage books
Candlesticks
Small pumpkins
Dried flowers
Antique frames
Brass décor
Other cottage-style Halloween decorations

The combination of black, white, blush pink, crochet, and flowers gives it that wonderfully unexpected vintage Halloween look.

🎃 Make It Your Own!

One of the best things about this DIY is that you don’t have to copy the original exactly.

Try different color combinations:

Romantic Ghost:
Blush pink + cream + dusty rose

Classic Halloween:
Orange + black + cream

Gothic Garden Ghost:
Deep burgundy + black + dark greenery

Winter Ghost:
White + silver + pale blue

Vintage Cottage Ghost:
Dusty pink + ivory + sage green

💡 Budget-Friendly Tip

Before buying your supplies, check your local thrift stores for crocheted doilies, lace runners, old wooden plaques, picture frames, and artificial flowers.

You can often transform pieces that would otherwise be overlooked into something completely new.

And don’t be afraid to mix different crochet patterns. The little imperfections are what give this project its vintage character.

🍎🌿 August Garden Newsletter

Back to School & Back to the Garden!

Hello, Garden Friends! 🌻

August always feels like a little transition. Summer is still hanging on, but we’re beginning to think about cooler days, fall gardens, and—of course—back to school!

For teachers, a new school year is a wonderful opportunity to bring a little bit of nature into the classroom. Plants can brighten up a room, give students something living to care for, and create a beautiful connection between the classroom and the natural world.

So grab your gardening gloves and let’s dig into August!

🍎🌱 1. Classroom Plants: Bring a Little Garden to School

If you’re a teacher looking for an easy-care plant for your classroom, there are plenty of wonderful choices. The key is choosing plants that can handle indoor conditions and don’t require constant attention.

🌿 Snake Plant

One of my favorite classroom choices!

Snake plants are incredibly forgiving and can tolerate lower light and periods of dryness. They also have an upright shape that doesn’t take up much desk space.

Classroom tip: Let students take turns checking the soil and learning when the plant actually needs water.

🌱 Pothos

Pothos is another fantastic classroom plant because it’s fast-growing and easy to care for.

Its trailing vines can be placed on a shelf where students can watch the plant grow throughout the school year.

Fun lesson: Have students measure the vines each month and keep a growth chart!

🌿 Spider Plant

Spider plants are fun because they produce little baby plants, called plantlets, that hang from the mother plant.

This gives students a chance to learn about how plants reproduce and even propagate their own little spider plants.

🌵 A Small Succulent

A small succulent can make a great student desk plant.

They need bright light and don’t need frequent watering, making them a good choice for a classroom where everyone occasionally forgets the watering schedule. 😉

Teacher Tip: Consider creating a small “Classroom Garden Corner” where students can observe, sketch, measure, and learn about the plants throughout the year.

🌿 2. Two Herbs You Can Grow in Containers in August

Don’t put those porch pots away just yet! August is a great time to continue growing herbs in containers.

🌿 Mint

Mint is one of the easiest herbs to grow in a container.

It enjoys bright light and regular watering and grows quickly once established.

Container tip: Always grow mint in its own pot. In the garden, it can spread enthusiastically and become a little too comfortable!

Use fresh mint in iced tea, lemonade, fruit salads, or summer desserts.

🌿 Cilantro

Cilantro is a wonderful herb to start in late summer as temperatures begin to moderate.

Give it:

☀️ Bright light
💧 Consistent moisture
🪴 A container with good drainage
🌱 Succession planting every few weeks for a continuous harvest

Cilantro grows quickly, making it especially rewarding for beginner gardeners.

Garden tip: Once plants begin flowering and producing seeds, allow some seeds to mature. You can collect them to use as coriander!

🌸 3. Start Thinking About Fall Color!

Don’t wait until September to think about your fall flower garden. August is a great time to start planning—and in some areas, planting—flowers that will carry your garden beautifully into autumn.

🧡 1. Marigolds

Marigolds are little garden sunshine machines!

Choose golden yellow, orange, or deep red varieties for a beautiful fall-inspired color palette.

Tip: Keep deadheading spent flowers and your marigolds can continue blooming well into fall.

💜 2. Chrysanthemums

No fall garden feels complete without chrysanthemums!

Look for mums in shades of:

Burgundy
Deep purple
Golden yellow
Orange
Rust
Red

Tip: When buying mums, choose plants covered in unopened buds rather than plants already in full bloom. You’ll get to enjoy the flowers for much longer.

❤️ 3. Celosia

Want something a little different?

Add celosia! Their unusual, feathery or crested blooms bring fantastic texture to fall containers and garden beds.

Look for fiery shades of red, orange, yellow, and burgundy.

Tip: Celosia loves warmth and sunshine, making it a wonderful choice for extending your summer garden into the first weeks of fall.

🌻 A Little Garden Inspiration for August

August reminds us that gardening isn’t just about growing beautiful flowers and delicious herbs. It’s also about learning, slowing down, and connecting with nature.

For teachers, a classroom plant can become a science experiment.

For kids, a tiny seed can become a lesson in patience.

And for all of us, a few colorful flowers on the porch can bring a little joy at the end of a long summer day.

🌿 Until next time, keep growing!

What plant would you love to have in your classroom or workspace this year? I’d love to hear what you’re growing!

Happy Gardening! 🌱💚